Saint Mark, patron of Korčula

What happens on the day

The feast of St Mark falls on 25 April. He is the saint to whom the cathedral at the top of the peninsula is dedicated, a link that goes back to Venetian rule: the winged lion of St Mark is still carved above the Land Gate. The day centres on a Mass in the cathedral and a procession that winds through the lanes of the old town. The town publishes the programme in spring, so check it shortly before you travel and do not rely on earlier years. The lanes are only a few metres wide, so stand at the side, let the procession pass, and keep phones and cameras out of the way.

Getting to the island

Korčula has no airport and no railway. The nearest airports are Dubrovnik and Split, both with direct flights from the UK and connections from North America and Australia through European hubs. From either city a catamaran runs to the town waterfront, docking west of the walls a few minutes on foot from the Land Gate, and coaches from Dubrovnik cross with the Orebić ferry to the bus station beside the marina. With a car, drive to Orebić on the Pelješac peninsula and take the ferry to Dominče, 3 km east of town, a crossing of about 15 minutes. Since the Pelješac bridge opened in 2022 the road from Split to Orebić avoids the border crossing at Neum. The old town is closed to cars, so park outside the walls.

• The car ferry from Split lands at Vela Luka, about 45 km from town by road.
• Local buses reach Lumbarda, Žrnovo and Račišće but run rarely, so hire a car or scooter for the beaches.
• In April the summer ferry queues do not form, and tickets are sold at the kiosk by the waterfront.
• Taxi boats to Badija and Vrnik leave from the town harbour and take 10 minutes at most.

Where to stay for the feast

Stay inside the walls or right beside them, so the Mass and the procession are a walk from your door. The core has a few small hotels and many apartments in stone houses, and the streets near the ACI Marina on the south-eastern side are quiet and 5 minutes from the cathedral. Lumbarda, 5 km east, suits those who want the sandy beaches of Bilin Žal and Vela Pržina. Late April is shoulder season: some seasonal places are still shut and prices sit well below those of July and August. Book early anyway, because the feast brings islanders home and rooms within the walls are few.

What else to see in town

The old core is walked in an hour, and in April you have it without the summer excursion crowds. Climb the Veliki Revelin tower above the Land Gate for the view over the roofs to Pelješac, then follow the main street along the spine of the peninsula to the cathedral square. The Town Museum in the Gabrielis palace opposite explains what the island lived on, stone, ships and wine, in about 40 minutes. Marco Polo House behind the cathedral is a short visit with a lookout at the top. Finish with the walk around the foot of the walls, past the Zakerjan tower at the north-western corner, which takes about 20 minutes and is best in the evening.

Where to eat and drink

For a meal that belongs to the island, take the road or the 30-minute footpath up to Žrnovo, 3 km above town, where taverns serve žrnovski makaruni, a pasta rolled by hand around a thin rod, with beef goulash. Wine is the other reason to eat well here: Pošip, the white from Čara and Smokvica, and Grk, which grows in the sandy vineyards around Lumbarda. If you cook for yourself, the town market west of the Land Gate works from early morning to noon, and the fish market beside it sells the night's catch until about 10:00. On Mondays the choice of fish is smaller.

Practical notes for late April

Late April on Korčula is mild, with daytime temperatures usually between 15 and 20 degrees Celsius, cool evenings and a real chance of rain, so bring a light waterproof and a warm layer for the procession, which is outdoors and slow. The sea is still cold for most swimmers. Inside the cathedral cover shoulders and knees and keep quiet during Mass. Cash is useful at the market, in smaller taverns and for taxi boats, though hotels and most restaurants take cards. The Moreška is a summer performance, so do not count on a show in April, and the bar on the Zakerjan tower is closed out of season. The lanes are stepped and uneven and the towers have narrow staircases, so wear firm shoes and leave the pushchair behind.