Church of St George

Why it is worth your time

The Church of St George is the crown of Primosten's islet: a parish church raised in the 15th century, when the settlers from the mainland were only consolidating on their island, extended through the centuries into today's calm, bright building. The interior is Dalmatian-simple, with baroque altars and gilding that flares when the evening sun enters through the windows; the place's true value is nonetheless the position. The church stands on the islet's highest point, and around it, as is the order on Dalmatian islands, spreads the graveyard: rows of white headstones with a view of the open sea that the most expensive apartments would wish for.

It sounds odd, but precisely the graveyard by St George is one of central Dalmatia's most serene places: cypresses, stone, sea to the horizon and a silence broken only by the bell. The climb from the town gate takes ten minutes at an easy step through the town's loveliest lanes. Come before sunset, when the stone warms into gold, and from the railing you see the islands of the Sibenik archipelago stack one behind another into ever paler blue.